This article is intended to help people understand how the complexity scoring is done for arts entries. This will address only the complexity portion, not documentation, authenticity, or craftsmanship. The complexity portion is normally worth a total of 10 points. There is also the possibility of up to an additional 3 bonus points if the project warrants it. There are several things to remember about complexity matrices:

1. A complexity matrix is designed to accurately reflect the complexity of a particular project (or art). It is not a way to inflate scores, or help beginners feel better about their projects, or do anything except put the various arts in perspective. A simple project should score less than a very complex one.

2. The matrices are a guideline. They are supposed to help the judges determine about where a particular project should fall. It is not the end-all, be-all. It is, in fact, a living document, which means that as we grow, and learn more, these matrices can be changed to more accurately reflect the projects.

3. An artisan can score their own projects, and present that to the judges, and discuss it with them. Judging can be a collaborative effort. 4. You’re not limited to just one complexity matrix. Don’t make the mistake of thinking that a simple project is stuck with a low score. As we go through this project, you will see how that works.

The sample project that we are going to “score” is a simple enough one. It’s a sideless surcoat, made of wool, and embroidered at the armholes, hems and neckline. There is a bit of embroidery on the chest, too. The dress itself is very simple. While it’s not detailed on the Early Period Matrix, it compares readily to a machine-sewn tabard, which is a complexity of 1. There are no sleeves or other details. It is, however, hand sewn, which might add 1 point (there really isn’t very much sewing at all). I would probably end up with a complexity score of 1.5.

The embroidery is another aspect that has to be analyzed. We don’t yet have an embroidery matrix, so we have to figure it out for ourselves. There are two types of stiches used: couching and stem stitch. The couching is done with wool, and gold metal thread. I would think that’s worth a complexity point

(metallic thread is a difficult substance to work with). The stem stitches are a simple enough stitch, also done with wool, a simple enough fiber to work with. The design itself is fairly simple around the hem and armholes. The chest pattern, however, is a fairly complex knot pattern. It was not done from kit, but rather designed from scratch (from a period illumination), and is a single ribbon that weaves accurately throughout

the design. I would give that 1 or 2 points of complexity, and probably discuss it with the judges and experts. That would be 3, maybe 4 points of complexity (depending on the knot pattern, and whether I scored 1 or 2 for the various stitches). But, wait! There’s more! The dark teal thread was handspun, adding yet another aspect of complexity to the overall project. All I did on that was to spin the wool roving, and ply it into thread. I did not shear the sheep, wash it, card it, or dye it. Simple spinning isn’t difficult, and I would only give myself 1 point for this thread. So, I would score this to be a total complexity of 5 to 7, depending on some of the details.